Question 1

Why do my windows get condensation on the inside in winter?

Accepted Answer

Interior condensation is warm, humid indoor air meeting a cold glass surface — like a cold drink sweating in summer. It's a humidity-and-temperature problem, not always a window defect. Old single-pane and failed units run very cold, so they collect moisture first. Lowering indoor humidity and upgrading to warmer-surface glass both reduce it.

Question 2

What's the difference between condensation inside, outside, and between the panes?

Accepted Answer

Inside the glass (room side): indoor humidity is too high for the glass temperature; manageable. Outside (exterior surface): usually a GOOD sign — the window insulates so well the outer glass stays cool enough to catch morning dew; harmless and temporary. Between the panes: the sealed unit has failed and moisture is trapped; this needs repair or replacement.

Question 3

Will new windows stop condensation completely?

Accepted Answer

They greatly reduce it but can't override physics. New units with warm-edge spacers and Low-E coatings keep the interior glass much warmer, so condensation forms far less often. But a home that generates lots of moisture (cooking, showers, drying laundry indoors) with no ventilation can still see some on the coldest days. Windows plus reasonable humidity control is the real fix.

Question 4

What indoor humidity should I keep in winter?

Accepted Answer

The colder it is outside, the lower indoor humidity should be. A common guideline is about 30–40% relative humidity in mild winter weather, dropping toward 25–30% in deep cold snaps. Persistent fog on good windows usually means the indoor air is too humid — a bathroom fan, range hood, or HRV usually solves it.

Question 5

Why do only some windows in my house fog up?

Accepted Answer

Two usual reasons: those windows are in higher-moisture rooms (bathrooms, laundry rooms, bedrooms), or they're in spots with poor air circulation — behind heavy curtains, blocked by furniture, or far from a heat register. Cold air pooling against the glass plus trapped moisture equals fog.

Question 6

There's mould on my window sills — what do I do?

Accepted Answer

Mould means moisture has sat on that surface repeatedly. Clean the existing growth, then tackle the source: lower indoor humidity, improve airflow around the window, and address any cold drafty unit producing condensation. Recurring mould around windows is one of the clearest signals that aging windows should be replaced.

Question 7

Is condensation on a new window a sign it's defective?

Accepted Answer

Usually not. Room-side condensation on a new window points to indoor humidity, not a fault, and exterior dew is a sign of good insulation. The one case that IS a defect is moisture sealed between the panes, which shouldn't happen on a new unit and would be a warranty matter.

Question 8

Why do I get frost or ice on the inside of my windows?

Accepted Answer

Frost is condensation that froze because the glass surface dropped below freezing — a hallmark of single-pane or failed older windows combined with high indoor humidity. Warmer multi-pane glass rarely gets cold enough on the room side to frost, which is why upgrading usually eliminates it.

Question 9

What is Low-E glass and do I need it?

Accepted Answer

Low-E (low emissivity) is a microscopically thin coating that reflects heat back to where it came from — keeping warmth inside in winter and blocking some solar heat in summer — while still letting light through. In the Canadian climate it's effectively standard. Yes, you want it.

Question 10

What does U-Factor mean, and what number should I look for?

Accepted Answer

U-Factor measures how much heat the window lets escape — lower is better (the opposite of R-value). For top efficiency in northern BC, look for a U-Factor of 1.22 W/m²·K or lower, which good triple-pane units reach.

Question 11

Double-pane vs triple-pane — what's the real difference?

Accepted Answer

Triple-pane adds a third sheet of glass and a second insulating gas layer. Versus double-pane it gives warmer interior glass (less condensation), better noise reduction, and a lower U-Factor. In cold Canadian climates the comfort and condensation difference is noticeable, and triple-pane is a reliable path to better thermal performance.

Question 12

What is argon or krypton gas fill — and does it leak out?

Accepted Answer

The space between panes is filled with an inert gas (usually argon; sometimes krypton in thin triple-pane gaps) that insulates better than air. A small amount can diffuse out very slowly over many years, but a well-made sealed unit holds its fill for a long time. If a seal fails outright, the gas escapes and you'll see fogging — that's a unit replacement, not a top-up.

Question 13

What are warm-edge spacers?

Accepted Answer

The spacer holds the panes apart at the edge. Older metal spacers conduct cold straight to the glass edge, exactly where condensation and frost start. Warm-edge spacers use low-conductivity materials to keep the glass edge warmer — better efficiency and noticeably less edge condensation.

Question 14

What is ENERGY STAR for windows, and why does my climate zone matter?

Accepted Answer

ENERGY STAR certifies windows that meet efficiency standards for a specific climate zone — a window ideal for southern Ontario isn't rated the same as one for northern BC. Buying a window certified for your zone ensures the efficiency claims apply where you live.

Question 15

What is SHGC (solar heat gain) and which way do I want it in Canada?

Accepted Answer

SHGC measures how much of the sun's heat passes through the glass. In a heating-dominated climate, a higher SHGC on south-facing windows can capture free winter warmth, while lower SHGC helps on west-facing glass that overheats in summer. Good design tunes it by orientation rather than using one setting everywhere.

Question 16

When is tempered (safety) glass required?

Accepted Answer

Building codes require tempered glass where breakage is a safety risk — typically near doors, close to the floor, in or beside tubs and showers, and in large or stairway glazing. Tempered glass shatters into small dull pieces instead of sharp shards. Your installer flags where code requires it; exact triggers are set by your local building code.

Question 17

Can I get privacy or obscured glass for bathrooms?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Obscured (frosted, patterned, or textured) glass lets light in while blocking the view — common for bathrooms, entry sidelights, and ground-floor windows facing a neighbour. It's specified per opening, so you can mix clear and obscured throughout the home.

Question 18

Vinyl vs fibreglass vs aluminum vs wood — which should I choose?

Accepted Answer

Vinyl: best all-round value — good insulator, no rot or corrosion, low maintenance; the most popular residential choice. Fibreglass: premium — very strong and dimensionally stable, paintable, great for large openings; costs more. Aluminum: strong but conducts cold (thermal bridging) unless thermally broken; better for warm climates or commercial use. Wood: classic look and good insulation, but needs upkeep and can rot in wet climates if unmaintained.

Question 19

Do vinyl windows fade, yellow, or warp over time?

Accepted Answer

Quality modern vinyl is UV-stabilized and holds colour well for years. White and light colours are most forgiving; very dark colours absorb more heat and should be rated for it to avoid warping in strong sun. As a rule, vinyl is one of the lowest-maintenance frame materials available.

Question 20

Can vinyl windows be painted?

Accepted Answer

Generally not recommended. Standard paint doesn't bond well to vinyl and can void the warranty, plus dark paint can cause heat warping. The better route is to order the colour you want from the factory — modern vinyl comes in many exterior colours and woodgrain finishes baked in.

Question 21

Why is aluminum a poor choice in cold climates?

Accepted Answer

Aluminum conducts heat extremely well, the opposite of what you want in a frame — it pulls cold straight through (thermal bridging), making the frame cold and condensation-prone. Thermally-broken aluminum improves this, but for an efficiency-and-comfort-driven home in a cold climate, vinyl or fibreglass usually makes more sense.

Question 22

Are wood windows worth it?

Accepted Answer

Wood offers a warmth of appearance many heritage and high-end homes want, and it insulates well. The trade-off is maintenance — periodic sealing or painting, and in wet climates an unmaintained wood frame can rot. Clad wood (wood interior, protective exterior) is a common compromise that reduces upkeep.

Question 23

What are the main window styles and how do they differ?

Accepted Answer

Casement: hinged on the side, opens with a crank; seals very tightly — excellent for wind and cold. Awning: hinged at the top, opens outward — can stay open in light rain. Single/double hung: sashes slide up and down (both move on a double hung); classic look. Slider: glides horizontally — simple and easy to operate. Picture: fixed (doesn't open) — maximum light and efficiency.

Question 24

Which window style is the most energy-efficient?

Accepted Answer

Fixed picture windows are most efficient because there's no operating seal to leak. Among windows that open, casement and awning win — they press against a compression seal when closed, so they're tighter than sliding styles (hung and slider) where two sashes pass each other. For windy, cold coastal exposures, casements are a strong default.

Question 25

What's the best style for ventilation and airflow?

Accepted Answer

Casements open the full width of the opening and can scoop passing breezes, so they ventilate very well. Awnings are great where you want airflow even during rain. Hung and slider windows only open to half the opening at a time, so they move less air — fine for many rooms, just a consideration in spaces you want to air out quickly.

Question 26

What is an egress window and where is it required?

Accepted Answer

An egress window is large enough for a person to escape through (or a firefighter to enter) in an emergency. Bedrooms — especially basement bedrooms — typically require one by code. There are minimum opening-size rules, but exact dimensions are set by your local building code, so confirm requirements with your building authority before finalizing a basement bedroom.

Question 27

Do window grids (grilles) affect efficiency or cleaning?

Accepted Answer

Most modern grids are sealed between the panes, so they don't touch the glass surface — no extra cleaning and no effect on the seal. They're a purely aesthetic choice (colonial, prairie, etc.). Grids applied to the surface are less common today for exactly the cleaning reason.

Question 28

What actually drives the price of a window?

Accepted Answer

The biggest factors are size, frame material, glass package (double vs triple, Low-E, gas fill), style (a crank casement costs more than a basic slider), colour and grids, and the type of installation (full-frame costs more than an insert). Quantity and access matter too. Two homes can get very different quotes simply from different glass and install methods.

Question 29

Why are quotes from different companies so far apart?

Accepted Answer

Usually because they're not quoting the same thing. Differences hide in product tier (double vs triple, builder-grade vs premium), install method (insert vs full-frame), and what's included — trim and finishing, old-window disposal, paperwork where a program applies, and warranty. Always compare line-by-line, not just the bottom number.

Question 30

How much can I get back in BC window rebates?

Accepted Answer

There is currently no provincial cash-back rebate for replacement windows in BC that we can promise you. Programs change often — if anything applies to your project, we will tell you during your free in-home assessment, and if nothing applies, we will say that plainly too.

Question 31

Who qualifies for BC rebates and grants?

Accepted Answer

There is currently no provincial cash-back rebate for replacement windows in BC that we can promise you. Programs change often — if anything applies to your project, we will tell you during your free in-home assessment, and if nothing applies, we will say that plainly too.

Question 32

Are cheap windows a false economy?

Accepted Answer

Often, yes. The lowest-priced quote can mean thinner glass packages, basic seals that fail sooner, or an insert install that skips fixing hidden problems. Windows are a 20+ year purchase — a unit that fogs up or drafts in year five erases the upfront savings. The goal is the right value, not the lowest sticker.

Question 33

Do new windows add value to my home?

Accepted Answer

Window replacement is consistently among the better-returning exterior renovations, and it's a visible selling feature — buyers notice efficient, modern windows and worry about old drafty ones. Beyond resale, you get the everyday return: lower energy bills, more comfort, and less noise.

Question 34

Can I replace just one or two windows, or do I have to do the whole house?

Accepted Answer

You can do a few at a time — starting with the worst offenders (fogged, drafty, or stuck units) is a smart, budget-friendly approach. Per-window economics differ on a small job, so it's worth understanding the net cost before deciding the order.

Question 35

Do you handle the rebate paperwork, or do I?

Accepted Answer

There is currently no provincial cash-back rebate for replacement windows in BC that we can promise you. Programs change often — if anything applies to your project, we will tell you during your free in-home assessment, and if nothing applies, we will say that plainly too.

Question 36

Is the quote really free?

Accepted Answer

Yes. The in-home assessment and written quote are completely free with no obligation. We'll measure, show you options, and tell you honestly whether any programs apply so you can decide on your own time.

Question 37

What's the difference between a retrofit (insert) and a full-frame replacement?

Accepted Answer

Retrofit/insert: a new window fits into the existing, sound frame; less disruption, lower cost, keeps interior trim; best when the old frame is in good shape. Full-frame: everything comes out down to the rough opening, so hidden rot or water damage can be fixed and the opening re-flashed and re-insulated; more thorough and more expensive. The right choice depends on the condition behind the window — which is why an in-home assessment matters.

Question 38

How do I know if I need full replacement or just a repair?

Accepted Answer

Repairs make sense for small issues — worn weatherstripping, a broken crank, a single fogged sealed unit in an otherwise good frame. Lean toward replacement with multiple failing units, rotting or warped frames, drafts you can feel, rising bills, or persistent condensation and mould. When repair costs approach a meaningful share of replacement, replacement usually wins.

Question 39

Can windows be installed in winter?

Accepted Answer

Yes — window replacement happens year-round in Canada, including winter. Crews work one opening at a time and seal each up before moving on, so the home is never left wide open to the cold. Winter often has more scheduling availability, and modern sealants are formulated to cure in cold conditions.

Question 40

What actually happens during a proper installation?

Accepted Answer

Beyond setting the window, a good install is about water and air management: the unit is levelled and squared, anchored correctly, the gap around it insulated, and the perimeter flashed and sealed so wind and rain can't get behind it. The glass is only as good as the install — poor sealing is what causes drafts and leaks later.

Question 41

Do you remove and dispose of my old windows?

Accepted Answer

Removal and haul-away of the old units is part of a standard professional replacement. It's still worth confirming disposal is included when comparing quotes, since it's a line item budget operators sometimes leave out.

Question 42

How should I prepare my home for installation day?

Accepted Answer

Clear a working path: take down blinds and curtains, remove items off sills and nearby walls, and move furniture a few feet back from each window. Keep pets in a separate room since doors and openings will be in use. The crew handles the rest and cleans up the work area.

Question 43

Will installation damage my walls, exterior cladding or interior finishes?

Accepted Answer

A standard insert replacement keeps the surrounding wall and trim largely intact, with the perimeter re-sealed and finished. Full-frame work disturbs more around the opening by design, so finishing is part of that scope. A professional install protects your finishes and tells you in advance where trim or exterior cladding has to be touched.

Question 44

Is there a best time of year to replace windows?

Accepted Answer

Spring and summer are busiest, but windows can be installed in any season. Warmer months are convenient but book up and can carry peak pricing; fall and winter often mean better availability and faster scheduling. The best time is usually before the problem gets worse — a failing window costs comfort and energy every month it waits.

Question 45

How long does a typical installation take?

Accepted Answer

Most homes are completed in one to three days depending on the number of windows and doors. We give you a clear timeline in your quote and keep your home secure and tidy throughout.

Question 46

What kind of warranty do you offer?

Accepted Answer

HTR Solutions Inc. provides the HTR Limited Warranty: 25-year installation workmanship and labour coverage, Limited Lifetime window vinyl frame and sash coverage while you or a registered transferee own the home, and 25-year sealed glass and window hardware coverage. Bug screens are covered for 5 years. Patio door vinyl frame and sash are covered for 25 years, with rollers and locks covered for 10 years. Steel and fibreglass entry door slabs are covered for 20 years; fibreglass panel-warp coverage requires a multi-point lock. Entry door systems and multi-point locks are covered for 10 years, painted finishes for 10 years and stained finishes for 5 years. Labour is included at no charge for each covered item's coverage period, up to 25 years. All periods start when installation is completed; coverage takes effect when paid in full. HTR handles every claim and covers any difference if manufacturer coverage is shorter. Transfer requires written notice within 30 days of title transfer. Exclusions and full terms are in your signed contract.

Question 47

My windows are drafty — what causes that and can it be fixed?

Accepted Answer

Drafts come from worn weatherstripping, failed seals, gaps around the frame, or a window no longer sitting square. Minor cases can be re-sealed or have weatherstripping replaced. Persistent drafts across several windows — especially with rising energy bills — usually mean the units have reached the end of their service life.

Question 48

My sealed unit is foggy between the panes — can it be fixed?

Accepted Answer

Fog between the panes means the seal failed and the insulating value is largely gone; it won't clear for good. If the frame and sashes are still sound, the glass unit can often be replaced on its own without swapping the whole window. If the frame is also aging, full replacement is usually the better long-term call.

Question 49

My window is hard to open or sticking — what's wrong?

Accepted Answer

Common causes are dirt or debris in the tracks, a worn or seized crank mechanism, paint sealing the sash shut, or a frame that has shifted out of square over time. Cleaning and lubrication fix many cases; hardware can be replaced. A frame that's badly out of square points toward replacement.

Question 50

What are the little holes at the bottom of my window frame for?

Accepted Answer

Those are weep holes, and they're supposed to be there. They let rainwater that collects in the frame track drain back outside instead of pooling. Keep them clear of dirt and debris — a blocked weep hole can let water back up into the frame.

Question 51

How do I maintain vinyl windows?

Accepted Answer

Very little is needed: wash frames and glass with mild soap and water a couple of times a year, vacuum and wipe the tracks, keep weep holes clear, and occasionally lubricate moving hardware. Avoid abrasive cleaners on the glass coatings. Low maintenance is vinyl's main advantage.

Question 52

How long do windows last, and when should they be replaced?

Accepted Answer

Quality windows generally last around 15–25 years, though sealed glass units can fail earlier. Replace when you see the telltale signs: fogging between panes, felt drafts, difficulty opening, visible frame damage, climbing energy bills, or ongoing condensation and mould.

Question 53

What are the clearest signs it's time to replace my windows?

Accepted Answer

Fog or moisture trapped between the panes; drafts you can feel or rooms that won't hold temperature; energy bills creeping up year over year; windows that stick, won't lock, or won't stay open; rotting, soft, or warped frames; recurring condensation, frost, or mould on or around the window.

Question 54

Why do my windows whistle or howl in the wind?

Accepted Answer

Whistling is air forced through a small gap — a worn seal, a poor original fit, or shrinkage around the frame. It's both an annoyance and a sign of air (and heat) leakage. Re-sealing can help minor cases; if it persists across windy days, the seal system has likely worn out.

Question 55

Do new windows really reduce outside noise?

Accepted Answer

Yes, noticeably. Multiple panes, gas fill, tight seals, and (in some configurations) varied glass thicknesses all dampen sound transmission. Triple-pane and laminated-glass options are especially effective near a busy road, flight path, or industrial area. It's one of the most appreciated everyday benefits after upgrading.

Question 56

Does salt air affect windows on the coast?

Accepted Answer

Salt-laden coastal air is hard on metal components — it can corrode low-grade hardware and is one reason aluminum frames struggle near the ocean. Vinyl and fibreglass frames don't corrode, and corrosion-resistant hardware matters for longevity. A periodic freshwater rinse of glass and frames helps too.

Question 57

Why is condensation worse in a rainy coastal climate?

Accepted Answer

Wet coastal climates mean high ambient humidity much of the year, so indoor air starts with more moisture and there are fewer dry spells to flush it out. That makes warm-surface glass (triple-pane, warm-edge spacers) and good ventilation more important here than in a dry interior climate — the baseline humidity is simply higher.

Question 58

What matters most for windows facing wind-driven rain?

Accepted Answer

Two things: the seal/weather system (how well the window resists water pushed at it under pressure) and a proper flashed, sealed installation so water can't get behind the frame. On exposed coastal walls, tight-sealing styles like casements and a careful install do more for keeping water out than the glass spec alone.

Question 59

What areas do you serve?

Accepted Answer

Prince Rupert, Kitimat, Terrace and surrounding communities in BC, plus Calgary, Airdrie, Canmore, Red Deer, Lethbridge, Medicine Hat, Edmonton and Coronation in Alberta.

Question 60

Is there a rebate for new windows in Alberta in 2026?

Accepted Answer

No — there is no provincial cash-back rebate in Alberta for replacement windows or doors. The federal Canada Greener Homes Grant closed to new applicants in 2024 and the Canada Greener Homes Loan closed to new applications on October 1, 2025. What's real today: the SHARP program for homeowners 65+, which is a loan rather than cash back, and contractor financing. We'd rather say that plainly than build a quote around a program that no longer exists.

Question 61

What happened to the Canada Greener Homes grant and loan?

Accepted Answer

Both are closed. The grant stopped accepting new applicants in 2024. The loan stopped accepting new applications on October 1, 2025, and the deadline for energy advisors to submit documents passed on December 31, 2025. Homeowners already approved continue through the existing process. If a contractor is still quoting either program for a brand-new project, their information is out of date.

Question 62

Does Alberta's SHARP program cover windows and doors?

Accepted Answer

Yes. SHARP is the Seniors Home Adaptation and Repair Program — a low-interest loan of up to $40,000 for Alberta homeowners aged 65 or older, secured against home equity and repaid when the home is sold or transferred. Energy-efficiency upgrades including windows and doors qualify. It is financing, not a rebate: the money is borrowed, not given. You apply directly to the Province; we provide the quote and documentation you need.

Question 63

Do chinooks actually damage windows?

Accepted Answer

Not in a single event — through repetition. A chinook can raise the temperature sharply within hours and then let it drop back the same day, and each swing expands and contracts the frame, the glass and the sealant at slightly different rates. Over years that cycling is what fatigues a sealed unit, cracks perimeter caulking and starts an older window leaking air. It's why in Alberta the weak point is usually the seal and the perimeter, not the glass itself.

Question 64

Triple pane or double pane in Alberta?

Accepted Answer

Triple pane earns its extra cost more easily in a cold, dry, wide-swinging climate than in a mild coastal one: the interior glass surface stays warmer, the area near the window feels less cold to sit beside, and condensation shows up far less on deep-freeze nights. Double pane with a good Low-E coating and argon fill is still a legitimate choice on a tighter budget. Pane count matters less than the U-factor of the finished unit and the quality of the install.

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Up to $2,500 Project Credit on Your Window & Door Upgrade

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Now booking in Northwest BC — October 15–25

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Windows & doors, done right

Replacement Windows

Exterior & Patio Doors

Energy-Efficient Upgrades

Glass options we install

Cardinal LoĒ²-272

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Neat glass

How it works

Free in-home assessment

Custom quote + program advice

Professional installation

Projects we're proud of

Your neighbours already chose HTR.

Windows and doors across Alberta.

Built for Alberta's swings, not a catalogue average.

Flexible Payment Plans

Open loan

Low Monthly Payments

Approved in Minutes

Everything homeowners ask about windows.

Condensation & moisture

Warmer home, lower bills. Get your free quote.

What are you replacing?

New windows & doors,lower bills, zero hassle.

What are you replacing?

Up to $2,500 Project Credit on Your Window & Door Upgrade

$1,500 credit

$2,500 credit

Now booking in Northwest BC — October 15–25

Financing & honest program advice

Northern BC — Terrace, Kitimat & Prince Rupert

Alberta — Calgary, Airdrie, Canmore, Red Deer, Lethbridge, Medicine Hat, Edmonton & Coronation

Am I eligible?

Windows & doors, done right

Replacement Windows

Exterior & Patio Doors

Energy-Efficient Upgrades

Glass options we install

Cardinal LoĒ²-272

Cardinal LoĒ³-366

Neat glass

How it works

Free in-home assessment

Custom quote + program advice

Professional installation

Projects we're proud of

Your neighbours already chose HTR.

Windows and doors across Alberta.

Built for Alberta's swings, not a catalogue average.

See the difference for yourself

Flexible Payment Plans

Open loan

Low Monthly Payments

Approved in Minutes

Everything homeowners ask about windows.

Condensation & moisture

Why do my windows get condensation on the inside in winter?

What's the difference between condensation inside, outside, and between the panes?

Will new windows stop condensation completely?

What indoor humidity should I keep in winter?

Why do only some windows in my house fog up?

There's mould on my window sills — what do I do?

Is condensation on a new window a sign it's defective?

Why do I get frost or ice on the inside of my windows?

Warmer home, lower bills. Get your free quote.

What are you replacing?

New windows & doors,
lower bills, zero hassle.